Comparison of the Cuisines of Northern and Southern Azerbaijan
by Pirouz Khanlou
Psychologists have long been fascinated with the problem of whether it is heredity or, rather, environment that plays the greater role in the development of the human species. Numerous studies have focused on identical twins who were separated at birth and grew up under different circumstances. In a sense, Azerbaijanis are like that. Figuratively speaking, they've been separated from their identical twin and brought up under entirely different policies and circumstances, which, in turn, have influenced their social, political, economic and religious outlook and upbringing. These differences, in turn, have even impacted their cuisine and the traditions related to food.
At the beginning of the 19th century, Azerbaijan was one territory comprised of khanates and ruled locally under the jurisdiction of the Persian Empire (known at the time as the Union of Gajar States). Conflict broke out between Czarist Russia and Persia. Two wars followed upon each other in short succession. Persia was defeated and forced to cede considerable territory to Russia in treaties signed at Gulustan (1813) and Turkmanchai (1828).
The territories now known as Georgia, Armenia and Nakhchivan (an autonomous political region inside Azerbaijan) had to be surrendered to Russia. Azerbaijan fared even worse because its territory was split between both Russia and Persia. The Araz River became the line of demarcation between what is known today as Northern Azerbaijan (now the Republic)
and Southern Azerbaijan, which is in Iran.
Left: Dinner tables in the Republic of Azerbaijan are often spread with many small dishes that are within arm's reach, as opposed to platters or bowls that are passed around which is the more common practice among Azerbaijanis living in Iran (Photo: Blair).
Today, the greater population of Azerbaijanis lives in Iran: only 8 million reside in the Republic, which gained its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. An estimated 25-30 million Azerbaijanis live in Iran.
Nearly 200 years after being separated, these different "upbringings" have led the "Azerbaijani twins" down the path to different destinies and different realities-differences that we discovered were reflected even in contemporary cuisine and eating habits. Here Pirouz Khanlou suggests some of the major differences.
When the Bolsheviks captured Baku in April 1920 and began establishing what would become the Soviet Union, a political course was set in Northern Azerbaijan that would forever impact every aspect of life-social, cultural, economic and religious. In fact, the changes had such a profound effect that they even impacted the traditional cuisine that had emerged over thousands of years.
The Soviet Union under Lenin (1917 to 1924) began implementing a planned economic system to unify the vast territory that made up the largest country on earth, comprising 15 different countries. These policies continued under Stalin (1924-1953), who launched an intensive industrialization program that forced the collectivization of agriculture. The New Economic Planning (NEP) organized the agricultural industry systematically. Stalin set out to convert the pre-revolution indigenous feudal agricultural system into an industrialized system, mobilizing the country in a very short period to create a self-sufficient economy with full provision to feed its masses.
Left: Two examples of Azerbaijani dishes from Iran, shown here as prepared by Pari Abadi in 2000. Above left: Tabrizi kufta, a large meatball seasoned with herbs such as tarragon, chives and cilantro, as well as mashed yellow peas, rice and a variety of spices. The stuffing is composed of sour cherries, prunes, walnuts and almonds mixed with fried onion and a hard-boiled egg. Sometimes the kufta is so large that it has an entire chicken inside.
It wasn't long before this new centralized approach impacted the traditional cuisines of the regions. Azerbaijan was no exception. Obviously, if a traditional recipe called for major ingredients that were no longer grown locally or were not accessible elsewhere in the USSR, it wasn't long before that dish totally disappeared from the table, and subsequently within a few generations even became erased from memory.
In other cases, even when the ingredients were readily available, if the preparation relied upon intensive, individualized manual labor that could not be converted to mass production in factories, these foods also disappeared. Such was the case of "sangak"-a flat, wide, whole wheat sourdough bread, traditionally baked individually in earthen tandir ovens. One of the major reasons we even know about these foods today is that they are still prevalent in Southern Azerbaijan.
Below: Seven-Colored Pilaf, long-grain rice decorated with a variety of ingredients, including pistachios, almonds, orange peel, potatoes, saffron-flavored fried onion and zarish (burgundy-colored sour dried berries). Photos: Pirouz Khanlou
In an effort to unify the peoples of the Soviet Union and create the generic "Soviet man", there was an overbearing tendency to impose Russian culture as a model, despite the fact that Russia was only one of the 15 republics that made up the USSR. Directives came from Moscow and always bore the mark of Russians. Crops that were grown-cabbage, wheat, potatoes-essentially catered to a Russian-based cuisine. Azerbaijani cooks had no choice but to incorporate this produce into their own recipes, to such an extent that Russian dishes like stuffed cabbage, borscht, pork sausages and "Stolichni" (a mayonnaise-based salad), though once foreign to Azerbaijanis' taste buds, soon became ordinary, everyday fare.
Rice vs. Potato
One of the most pronounced differences between pre-Revolutionary [1917] cuisine before in Northern Azerbaijan is the attitude towards rice and potato. Rice is not an integral part of the Russian diet; potato is. And subsequently, today in Northern Azerbaijan, potato is featured more than rice.
Blame it on the choice of which vegetables should be cultivated for the demise of rice in Northern Azerbaijan today. Russians like cabbage and use it in borscht and stuffed cabbage rolls. Although cabbage can be grown under various climactic conditions, rice is much more restricted and requires a wet, subtropical climate. Soviets were intrigued with the idea of guaranteeing fresh cabbage in Moscow markets by early April, even before the snows had melted. This was possible if they planted and transported it from the southern climes of Azerbaijan. And thus the rice and tea plantations located in the Lankaran region of Azerbaijan, near the Iranian border, were replaced with cabbage farms. Tea was imported from India and exchanged for Soviet military hardware.
Left: Fresh sangak (whole-wheat sourdough bread) as it was prepared in pre-Revolutionary Baku, before 1920. The bread was baked on the sides of a tandir oven and then hung up to dry. Sangak is still one of the favorite types of bread in Iran, where an estimated 25-30 million Azerbaijanis live. Photos: Azerbaijan National Photo Archives.
Rice, which had been so fundamental to Azerbaijani cuisine, became a rarity. A great number of traditional rice dishes disappeared. Azerbaijanis became potato and bread-eaters instead, and bread and dough-based dishes like gutab, khangal and dushbara (dishes unknown in Southern Azerbaijan cuisine) became the primary source of carbohydrates.
Rice was relegated to the role of luxury-a dish served only at weddings and special occasions. Southern Azerbaijanis, however, still enjoy rice on a daily basis, just as they have done for centuries.
Fewer Spices
Left: During the Soviet period in Azerbaijan, bread was mass-produced so traditional forms like the sangak which are made by hand, soon were no longer available. A bakery in Baku, Soviet era. Photos: Azerbaijan National Photo Archives.
The Soviet government soon took control of all imported goods. As a result, the variety of spices, which provided the nuances of flavor in Azerbaijani cuisine, disappeared. Russian cuisine doesn't require many spices, so the Soviet economic planners considered them superfluous and non-essential. Tightly guarded political borders and the state-controlled economic program prohibited spices from being imported from India or the Middle East. And so it wasn't long before the spice bazaars, with their exotic aromas and tantalizing colors, disappeared.
Today, there are no spice bazaars in the Republic and the range of spices is extremely limited, especially in comparison with Southern Azerbaijan, which is known for its famous spice bazaars in the major cities of Tabriz, Urmia, Ardabil and Zanjan. The Amir Bazaar in Tabriz is especially noteworthy because so many merchants there deal in spices.
Consider saffron, an exceedingly expensive spice derived from the delicate pistils of handpicked saffron stamens. Saffron provides both flavor and golden orange coloring for rice pilaf. Soviets may have considered it "bourgeois", and so it mostly disappeared.
Left: "Goy gutab" is typical cuisine in Northern Azerbaijan. Ingredients includes salad types of greens. Other typical gutabs are made of meat and pumpkin. Photo: Huseinzade
Without these spices, food in Northern Azerbaijan became much plainer. To this day, seasonings are primarily restricted to salt, pepper, turmeric and a few other seasonings. In the South, Azerbaijanis still season their dishes with a wide variety of spices, including ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, caraway, and numerous spices and mixtures unknown to the West.
Belief Systems
Many traditional ideas and beliefs have disappeared as well. One dealt with the categories of "hot" and "cold" foods, much like the beliefs of Ayurveda in India. These categories refer to the effect food has on the body, not to the temperature of the food itself.
If you ask an Azerbaijani in the North about the concept of "hot and cold", you'll probably just get a blank expression. But Azerbaijanis in Iran still believe in these classifications and are careful to follow guidelines such as: don't mix hot with hot, or cold with cold. Hot foods are said to raise the blood pressure, cold foods, to lower it. Foods categorized as "cold" include cucumber, eggplant, cabbage, tomatoes, lettuce
, yogurt, fish and rice. Foods in the "hot" category include garlic, walnuts, grapes, apples, honey, eggs, bread and red meat.
Another belief system, that of traditional medicine, has almost totally disappeared in the North. Soviets tried to stamp out the use of traditional medicine based on natural herbs. There used to be herbal medicine shops called "attar", where you could treat specific ailments with dried herbal mixtures. Southern Azerbaijanis still have such shops.
In Hajibeyov's musical comedy of 1913, "O Olmasin, Bu Olsun" (If Not This One, That One), the main character, Mashadi Ibad, was one such bazaar merchant who sold herbal remedies. In the 1956 movie version, scenes of pre-Revolutionary Baku include such shops (See AI 5.3, Autumn 1997; SEARCH at AZER.com).
These days, now that Azerbaijan has gained its independence, people are beginning to experiment once again with treatments derived from natural herbs, but very minimally, as Azerbaijanis are more used to synthetic drugs.
Influence of Alcohol
The introduction of alcohol, specifically vodka, during the Soviet period has shaped Northern cuisine in profound ways. For example, take the presentation of food. In the Republic, when guests arrive, they are ushered into a room with a long table covered with many small plates, all within easy reach of every person. In Southern Azerbaijan, however, there tends to be only one dish or platter for each entrée, which is passed around.
Why so many small dishes? Perhaps it can be traced to the influence of vodka. Traditionally, Azerbaijanis did not drink alcohol except on rare occasions. In Iran, because of religious restrictions, alcohol is illegal and few people drink. But Russians are known to be hard drinkers who consider food an accompaniment to alcohol, and not vice versa.
Russians have a saying: "Tea is not like vodka, which you can drink a lot of". Russians have a tradition of serving "zakuska"-appetizers set out on small plates, such as pickles, salami, sausages, salted herring and mayonnaise-based salads. Nibbling on such dishes enables a person to sustain drinking for several hours.
Today, these same food practices continue in the Republic. This may also explain why rice is served as the last entree at weddings, long after the major entrees are finished. Were rice to be introduced earlier, it could interfere with drinking because the guests would be too stuffed.
Curiously, the role of vodka is evidenced in traditional expressions. When Azerbaijanis describe a difficult task, they say, "I had to eat a whole sheep to do this." The Russian version is: "I had to drink half a liter (of vodka)". Azerbaijanis in the Republic are inclined to offer a lot of toasts when drinking, a pattern that is barely known in the South. (See "Tamada", Autumn 1995, AI 4.3; SEARCH at AZER.com).
Mealtime
Another distinct difference relates to mealtimes. In Northern Azerbaijan, there doesn't seem to be a regular schedule for families to eat-no matter which meal. But in Southern Azerbaijan, fairly routine patterns have been established, and all family members, including fathers, are usually present-even for the noon meal.
Perhaps Soviet labor patterns are to blame for practices that developed in Northern Azerbaijan and are still widespread today. During the Soviet period, most women were required to work outside the home. Husbands and wives were often involved in different sectors, services or factories. Their different time schedules did not allow coordination of family mealtimes.
Noon meals were often served in canteens and cafeterias in government offices and factories. In the Republic today, it is not unusual for family members to go to the kitchen and find food that has been prepared earlier and serve themselves.
In the South, the majority of women still do not work outside the home and thus are able to carry out the more traditional homemaking tasks for their families, which could account for more regular scheduling. Southern Azerbaijanis still break from work during the hot midday hours. Schools are organized in shifts "before lunch" and "after lunch", enabling children to join family members, including their fathers, for the noon meal.
Entertaining Guests
In the Republic, no matter what time of day or night a guest arrives, it is assumed that food will be served. There is always some sort of food available. However, in the South there tends to be two categories of guests-those who are invited for a meal such as lunch or dinner, and those who drop in for tea. Plans are made several days in advance if guests are invited for meals so that a wide range of dishes can be prepared.
On the other hand, having guests for tea is less formal. An assortment of sweets will accompany the tea-seasonal fruit, cakes, chocolates, hard candies or prepared sweets like the deep-fried "zulbia" and "bamya" dipped in syrup and "Iris", a chocolate flavored caramel-like candy. "Sharbat", a fruit-flavored drink, may also be offered.
Religious Festivities
In Iran, two religious months based on the lunar calendar-Ramadan and Maharram-play a dramatic role in traditions related to cuisine. Ramadan (also known as "ramazan") is the strict observance of fasting in Islam. People don't eat from sunrise to sunset-in public, that is. This practice extends even to drinking water, smoking or chewing gum. However, after sundown, relatives and close family friends gather in each other's homes to break their fasts. Tables are lavishly spread with appetizers and main courses. This practice continues throughout the entire month of Ramadan and, essentially, ends up being more like a feast than a fast-every night.
Maharram, the month of mourning, marks the martyrdom of the third Shiite Imam. This month is characterized by offering charity to members of the community, especially those who are in need. Wealthy people arrange large lunches and dinners either at home or in local mosques. Food is shared with the poor and indigent.
Though both of these religious traditions were widely practiced by Azerbaijanis, the Soviet takeover in Northern Azerbaijan resulted in these practices becoming nearly extinct.
Forbidden Foods
Islam places restrictions on a few foods. Those permitted are known as "halal". Forbidden foods are called "haram" and include pork, alcoholic drinks, sturgeon and, therefore, caviar. (Sturgeon falls into the broader category of "fish with no scales". However, it should be noted that this prized fish was declared "makruh" by Islamic clergy in 1979 for the first time in the Islamic world. "Makruh" implies that permission has been granted to eat it, though it would be better not to.)
These religious restrictions continue to impact the cuisine in South Azerbaijan. During the Soviet period, with its secular and anti-religious sentiments, such restrictions were eradicated, and Northern Azerbaijanis today generally don't observe them. For example, one of the most prized kababs in the Republic is sturgeon. Despite the fact that both Iran and Azerbaijan Republic have access to the Caspian, there are no traditional sturgeon dishes in the South. White fish is more popular.
Dinner Guests
Even the practice of inviting guests over for dinner differs between the North and South. For instance, in the South, guests may be invited to sit on carpets as is the tradition, where a "sufra"-tablecloth-is spread. But in the Republic-even in remote villages-guests are always offered chairs to pull up around a table.
In Iran, when the guests arrive, they are usually ushered into the living room and offered tea or "sharbat", along with sweets or fruit. The meal is not yet set out. Later on, the guests usually move to another room to enjoy the main courses.
The small, cramped apartments that were built during the Soviet period don't facilitate such hospitality. Most apartments do not have a formal dining area; the small living room often doubles as dining room and may even triple as bedroom. When guests arrive, the food is already set out, with all sorts of small plates of appetizers spread on the table. All guests immediately take their places around the table, where they are likely to stay seated for the duration of the evening.
Obviously, there are numerous other differences that could be elaborated. But without a doubt, the political system imposed by the Soviet system on Northern Azerbaijan has had a profound, doubtlessly irreversible, effect on the country's socio-economic, religious and cultural developments, including its traditional cuisine.
Pirouz Khanlou, publisher of Azerbaijan International, is an architect based in California and an amateur gourmet cook. Marjan and Narges Abadi also contributed to the research for this article.
http://azer.com/aiweb/categories/magazine/ai104_folder/104_articles/104_food_north_south.html
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Halloween in (Liman) Lenkeran
Everyone show us your scariest face!
The coolest looking spider web cake ever! Good job Rach =)
The snack table =)
Rachel as the baker & Hiba as the black cat
Handing out "Mardi Gras" beads
Boys carving pumpkins
Leman (Jaclyn’s host sister) LOVES Halloween!
Girls carving pumpkins
Scooping out pumpkin guts!
Jaclyn was concentrating really hard!
It’s all about precision!
Batman: Be careful with that candle mask-boy!
The best dressed ladies in town
Students drawing the “funniest ghost face” & the “scariest pumpkin face”
Snacking on chipsies, cake, candy corn, and chay
The Lenkeran PCVs rock!!!
Jaclyn being all gangster with her counterparts ;-)
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Increase in Violence Against Females on Television
As much as I love being a Peace Corps volunteer in Azerbaijan, a big part of me misses my job as an advocate at the District Attorney's Office - Family Violence Division. I miss being part of a group of dedicated, intelligent, and caring professionals. I am still on several list serves, so I constantly receive emails letting me know what is going on in the field. This morning, I was one of the recipients on a mass email from a fellow advocate who wanted a professional consultation about a case he/she was working on, and it made me feel nostalgic. I remember constantly thinking about my clients and how we could connect them with the resources they needed. Here in Lenkeran, I am always thinking about my students and their well being, but a part of me misses fighting crime!
The Parents Television Council just published a disturbing new study that found big increases in the scope of how violence against women and girls is being portrayed on television. This quick but critical MUST READ!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Press Release
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
October 28, 2009
Women in Peril: PTC Report Finds Increase in Violence Against Females on Television
LOS ANGELES (October 28, 2009) – In a new special report, the Parents Television Council® found that storylines depicting violence against females are increasing and being shown more graphically and in ways that have not been seen in the history of television.
The PTC’s report, Women in Peril: A Look at TV’s Disturbing New Storyline Trend, examined fatal and nonfatal female victimizations on prime time broadcast television and found that there was a significant increase in all forms of female victimization storylines; an increase in the depiction of teen girls as victims; an increase in the use of female victimization as a punch line in comedy series; and an increase in the depiction of intimate partner violence.
“Our new research points to a disturbing trend: by depicting violence against women with increasing frequency, or as a trivial, even humorous matter, the broadcast networks may ultimately be contributing to a desensitized atmosphere in which people view aggression and violence directed at women as normative, even acceptable,” said PTC President Tim Winter.
“Just last week, actresses like Nicole Kidman testified before the Congress that Hollywood probably has contributed to violence against women by portraying them as weak sex objects. We all must pay attention to the fact that this is a problem in our society. The fact is that children are influenced by what they see on TV and that certainly includes media violence,” said PTC Director of Communications and Public Education Melissa Henson.
The study compares the qualitative and quantitative differences in the treatments of violence against women on prime time broadcast television between 2004 and 2009. PTC analysts examined all primetime programming (excluding sports and news programs) on the major broadcast networks (ABC, CBS, Fox, and NBC)* during the February and May 2004 and 2009 sweeps periods for a total of 209.5 hours of programming.
Major Findings
Incidents of violence against women and teenage girls are increasing on television at rates that far exceed the overall increases in violence on television. Violence, irrespective of gender, on television increased only 2% from 2004 to 2009, while incidents of violence against women increased 120% during that same period.
The most frequent type of violence against women on television was beating (29%), followed by credible threats of violence (18%), shooting (11%), rape (8%), stabbing (6%), and torture (2%). Violence against women resulted in death 19% of the time.
Violence towards women or the graphic consequences of violence tends overwhelmingly to be depicted (92%) rather than implied (5%) or described (3%).
Every network but ABC demonstrated a significant increase in the number of storylines that included violence against women between 2004 and 2009.
Although female victims were primarily of adult age, collectively, there was a 400% increase in the depiction of teen girls as victims across all networks from 2004 to 2009.
Fox stood out for using violence against women as a punch line in its comedies -- in particular Family Guy and American Dad -- trivializing the gravity of the issue of violence against women.
From 2004 to 2009 there was an 81% increase in incidences of intimate partner violence on television.
“Our study today serves as a clarion call to all Americans about a critical issue with dire consequences. We are calling on television producers and network executives, members of the advertising community, elected representatives and appointed government officials, and most importantly, the viewing public, to stand up against this disturbing trend. In a country where more than 60% of children have been exposed to violence in their daily lives, according to recent research by Justice Department, we must take the utmost care not to normalize violent behavior – especially violence against women – through our television programming,” Winter added.
To read at the full report and view video clips from the study, visit:
http://www.parentstv.org/womeninperil.
*CW and MyNetworkTV did not exist in 2004.
To speak with a representative from the Parents Television Council, please contact Kelly Oliver (ext. 140) or Megan Franko (ext. 148) at (703) 683-5004.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Parents Television Council™ (www.parentstv.org®) is a non-partisan education organization advocating responsible entertainment. It was founded in 1995 to ensure that children are not constantly assaulted by sex, violence and profanity on television and in other media. This national grassroots organization has more than 1.3 million members across the United States, and works with television producers, broadcasters, networks and sponsors in an effort to stem the flow of harmful and negative messages targeted to children. The PTC also works with elected and appointed government officials to enforce broadcast decency standards. Most importantly, the PTC produces critical research and publications documenting the dramatic increase in sex, violence and profanity in entertainment. This information is provided free of charge so parents can make informed viewing choices for their own families.
The Parents Television Council just published a disturbing new study that found big increases in the scope of how violence against women and girls is being portrayed on television. This quick but critical MUST READ!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Press Release
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
October 28, 2009
Women in Peril: PTC Report Finds Increase in Violence Against Females on Television
LOS ANGELES (October 28, 2009) – In a new special report, the Parents Television Council® found that storylines depicting violence against females are increasing and being shown more graphically and in ways that have not been seen in the history of television.
The PTC’s report, Women in Peril: A Look at TV’s Disturbing New Storyline Trend, examined fatal and nonfatal female victimizations on prime time broadcast television and found that there was a significant increase in all forms of female victimization storylines; an increase in the depiction of teen girls as victims; an increase in the use of female victimization as a punch line in comedy series; and an increase in the depiction of intimate partner violence.
“Our new research points to a disturbing trend: by depicting violence against women with increasing frequency, or as a trivial, even humorous matter, the broadcast networks may ultimately be contributing to a desensitized atmosphere in which people view aggression and violence directed at women as normative, even acceptable,” said PTC President Tim Winter.
“Just last week, actresses like Nicole Kidman testified before the Congress that Hollywood probably has contributed to violence against women by portraying them as weak sex objects. We all must pay attention to the fact that this is a problem in our society. The fact is that children are influenced by what they see on TV and that certainly includes media violence,” said PTC Director of Communications and Public Education Melissa Henson.
The study compares the qualitative and quantitative differences in the treatments of violence against women on prime time broadcast television between 2004 and 2009. PTC analysts examined all primetime programming (excluding sports and news programs) on the major broadcast networks (ABC, CBS, Fox, and NBC)* during the February and May 2004 and 2009 sweeps periods for a total of 209.5 hours of programming.
Major Findings
Incidents of violence against women and teenage girls are increasing on television at rates that far exceed the overall increases in violence on television. Violence, irrespective of gender, on television increased only 2% from 2004 to 2009, while incidents of violence against women increased 120% during that same period.
The most frequent type of violence against women on television was beating (29%), followed by credible threats of violence (18%), shooting (11%), rape (8%), stabbing (6%), and torture (2%). Violence against women resulted in death 19% of the time.
Violence towards women or the graphic consequences of violence tends overwhelmingly to be depicted (92%) rather than implied (5%) or described (3%).
Every network but ABC demonstrated a significant increase in the number of storylines that included violence against women between 2004 and 2009.
Although female victims were primarily of adult age, collectively, there was a 400% increase in the depiction of teen girls as victims across all networks from 2004 to 2009.
Fox stood out for using violence against women as a punch line in its comedies -- in particular Family Guy and American Dad -- trivializing the gravity of the issue of violence against women.
From 2004 to 2009 there was an 81% increase in incidences of intimate partner violence on television.
“Our study today serves as a clarion call to all Americans about a critical issue with dire consequences. We are calling on television producers and network executives, members of the advertising community, elected representatives and appointed government officials, and most importantly, the viewing public, to stand up against this disturbing trend. In a country where more than 60% of children have been exposed to violence in their daily lives, according to recent research by Justice Department, we must take the utmost care not to normalize violent behavior – especially violence against women – through our television programming,” Winter added.
To read at the full report and view video clips from the study, visit:
http://www.parentstv.org/womeninperil.
*CW and MyNetworkTV did not exist in 2004.
To speak with a representative from the Parents Television Council, please contact Kelly Oliver (ext. 140) or Megan Franko (ext. 148) at (703) 683-5004.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Parents Television Council™ (www.parentstv.org®) is a non-partisan education organization advocating responsible entertainment. It was founded in 1995 to ensure that children are not constantly assaulted by sex, violence and profanity on television and in other media. This national grassroots organization has more than 1.3 million members across the United States, and works with television producers, broadcasters, networks and sponsors in an effort to stem the flow of harmful and negative messages targeted to children. The PTC also works with elected and appointed government officials to enforce broadcast decency standards. Most importantly, the PTC produces critical research and publications documenting the dramatic increase in sex, violence and profanity in entertainment. This information is provided free of charge so parents can make informed viewing choices for their own families.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
All things Fall in Lenkeran
Every Tuesday I go to Lenkeran State University for my “Teach English” class with the third year English majors. Next year they will have their teaching practicum at the Turkish school, and I think it would great if they learned how to lesson plan and used a variety of teaching methods in their classroom – so that is why I started this class, to get them excited about teaching before they even step foot in a classroom. I absolutely adore these students; they are so dedicated and enthusiastic about learning and actively participating in every lesson!
Anyway, on my way back from the university today, I spotted a beautiful set of trees that were totally picturesque! So after lunch I decided to go for a walk and take a few pictures! The weather was beautiful, and this is what I got...





Anyway, on my way back from the university today, I spotted a beautiful set of trees that were totally picturesque! So after lunch I decided to go for a walk and take a few pictures! The weather was beautiful, and this is what I got...
Friday, October 2, 2009
A Quick Family Violence Update
President Obama nominated Susan B. Carbon as director of the Office on Violence Against Women in the Department of Justice.
Obama nominates N.H. judge to Justice post
A top judge of New Hampshire's family court is going to Washington for a new job.
President Obama annnounced this evening he is nominating Susan B. Carbon as director of the Office on Violence Against Women in the Department of Justice.
Carbon, first appointed to the bench in 1991, has been a supervisory Judge of the New Hampshire Judicial Branch Family Division since 1996. She is a member of the Governor’s Commission on Domestic and Sexual Violence and, until recently, was chairwoman of New Hampshire’s Domestic Violence Fatality Review Committee.
Her resume, provided by the White House, is below:
Susan B. Carbon, Nominee for Director, Office on Violence Against Women, Department of Justice
Susan Carbon, first appointed to the bench in 1991, has been a Supervisory Judge of the New Hampshire Judicial Branch Family Division since 1996. She is a member of the Governor’s Commission on Domestic and Sexual Violence and, until recently, chaired New Hampshire’s Domestic Violence Fatality Review Committee. Judge Carbon was also a President of the National Council of Juvenile and Family Court Judges (NCJFCJ) from 2007 to 2008 where she still frequently serves as a faculty member. She also serves as faculty for the National Judicial Institute on Domestic Violence - a partnership of the U.S. Department of Justice’s Office on Violence Against Women, the Family Violence Prevention Fund, and the NCJFCJ. In September 2006, she chaired Firearms and Domestic Violence: A National Summit for Community Safety in Los Angeles, an initiative funded by the U.S. Department of Justice. She also chaired the project which produced the multidisciplinary Effective Issuance and Enforcement of Orders of Protection in Domestic Violence Cases (The Burgundy Book), a document used throughout the country and U.S. territories to guide professionals in their work around civil protection orders. Judge Carbon has trained judges and other professionals across the country and internationally on topics related to family violence, firearms, child custody, and child protection. She has published extensively on these and other topics, including on judicial selection and retention and judicial administration. She is a graduate of the University of Wisconsin-Madison and the DePaul University College of Law.
E-mail|Link|Comments (0) Posted by Foon Rhee, deputy national political editor October 1, 2009 07:04 PM
http://www.boston.com/news/politics/politicalintelligence/2009/10/obama_nominates_8.html
Obama nominates N.H. judge to Justice post
A top judge of New Hampshire's family court is going to Washington for a new job.
President Obama annnounced this evening he is nominating Susan B. Carbon as director of the Office on Violence Against Women in the Department of Justice.
Carbon, first appointed to the bench in 1991, has been a supervisory Judge of the New Hampshire Judicial Branch Family Division since 1996. She is a member of the Governor’s Commission on Domestic and Sexual Violence and, until recently, was chairwoman of New Hampshire’s Domestic Violence Fatality Review Committee.
Her resume, provided by the White House, is below:
Susan B. Carbon, Nominee for Director, Office on Violence Against Women, Department of Justice
Susan Carbon, first appointed to the bench in 1991, has been a Supervisory Judge of the New Hampshire Judicial Branch Family Division since 1996. She is a member of the Governor’s Commission on Domestic and Sexual Violence and, until recently, chaired New Hampshire’s Domestic Violence Fatality Review Committee. Judge Carbon was also a President of the National Council of Juvenile and Family Court Judges (NCJFCJ) from 2007 to 2008 where she still frequently serves as a faculty member. She also serves as faculty for the National Judicial Institute on Domestic Violence - a partnership of the U.S. Department of Justice’s Office on Violence Against Women, the Family Violence Prevention Fund, and the NCJFCJ. In September 2006, she chaired Firearms and Domestic Violence: A National Summit for Community Safety in Los Angeles, an initiative funded by the U.S. Department of Justice. She also chaired the project which produced the multidisciplinary Effective Issuance and Enforcement of Orders of Protection in Domestic Violence Cases (The Burgundy Book), a document used throughout the country and U.S. territories to guide professionals in their work around civil protection orders. Judge Carbon has trained judges and other professionals across the country and internationally on topics related to family violence, firearms, child custody, and child protection. She has published extensively on these and other topics, including on judicial selection and retention and judicial administration. She is a graduate of the University of Wisconsin-Madison and the DePaul University College of Law.
E-mail|Link|Comments (0) Posted by Foon Rhee, deputy national political editor October 1, 2009 07:04 PM
http://www.boston.com/news/politics/politicalintelligence/2009/10/obama_nominates_8.html
Saturday, September 26, 2009
U.S.- Azerbaijan Relations
Below is the text from a speech made by Under Secretary for Political Affairs, William J. Burns.
Thank you for that kind introduction and for organizing such an important conference. It’s an honor to join you today, especially Deputy Foreign Minister Azimov, Ambassador Aliyev, and my friend and former colleague David Kramer.
I was asked to discuss the U.S.-Azerbaijan relationship in about 15 minutes. That reminds me of a story involving George Bernard Shaw, the famous author, which highlights the challenge of brevity in public speaking. It seems that Shaw was hosting an event one day in London, and the first speaker came up to him and asked him how long he should speak for. Shaw told him he should probably limit his remarks to about fifteen minutes. "Fifteen minutes!" the speaker replied in horror. "How am I supposed to tell them everything I know in fifteen minutes ?" Shaw paused, and then responded: "In your case, I would advise you to speak very slowly."
In my case, you don’t have to worry about me going much beyond fifteen minutes, even if I speak very slowly.
Let me start by asking a simple question: why does Azerbaijan matter to the United States? Since you’re all attending this conference, I’m sure you already have a good sense of the importance of Azerbaijan, but sometimes the obvious bears repeating.
The U.S. views Azerbaijan as a strategic partner sitting at the crossroads of the Middle East, Europe, and Asia – regions whose future will shape American interests and foreign policy for many years to come. After gaining independence in 1991, Azerbaijan chose to open its rich oil and gas resources to Western markets and develop commercial partnerships with foreign investors, including U.S. companies. As a result, Azerbaijan has emerged as a key player for diversifying and securing global energy supply. Its pipelines have become main arteries connecting the Caspian Sea to the West. Its commitment to building its governing institutions and a modern economy has bolstered the country’s stability and stimulated economic growth.
A more stable and prosperous Azerbaijan promises a more stable and prosperous Caucasus. It promises more opportunities for peace in a complex region. And it promises a more reliable partner for fighting global threats - from terrorism to financial crises - which no single nation can overcome alone.
That’s why the United States places such importance on our relationship with Azerbaijan. We want Azerbaijan to succeed in becoming a market-based economy and a democratic state. We want it to live in peace with its neighbors and play a central role in bringing stability to the region. These goals are not only in Azerbaijan’s self-interest, but in our common interest.
My next question is then: how is the United States helping Azerbaijan achieve these objectives? Our bilateral agenda focuses on three main areas: security cooperation, energy, and economic and democratic reform.
Security
In the security realm, one of our highest priorities is fighting the threat of violent extremism. Azerbaijan – a moderate, secular state with a majority Muslim population – has been a key ally in this campaign. It has shared information, increased efforts to combat terrorism financing, and apprehended and prosecuted suspected terrorists.
As an active participant in NATO’s Partnership for Peace program, Azerbaijan is developing multifaceted security relationships with its neighbors in the region. It has made steadfast contributions to NATO and coalition efforts in Iraq, Afghanistan, and Kosovo, which, Mr. Ambassador, we greatly appreciate. In 2008, Azerbaijani troops completed five years of service in Iraq, often serving next to U.S. Marines. This year, the number of Azerbaijani peacekeepers in Afghanistan doubled from 45 to 90. Azerbaijan also provides valuable overflight, refueling, and landing rights for U.S. and coalition aircraft bound for Afghanistan and Iraq.
While Azerbaijan has made critical contributions to international security efforts, we recognize that the country has security concerns closer to home. Key to long-term stability in the region is achieving a peaceful resolution of the Nagorno – Karabakh conflict. Let me assure you that the President and Secretary Clinton are committed to doing everything possible to support that goal. We want to see Azerbaijan and Armenia living side-by-side in a peace that fosters mutual prosperity.
Towards that end, we recently announced the appointment of Ambassador Bob Bradtke as the next U.S. co-chair of the OSCE Minsk Group. Bob brings more than 36 years of Foreign Service experience to the position, reflecting the importance the United States places on this process.
We hope that the recent progress made in talks between Presidents Aliyev and Sargsian will lead to tangible results when they meet next month. The outline of a possible settlement has been clear for some time, though as with all things, the devil lies in the details and further discussions will be needed to satisfy the concerns of both sides. We trust that all parties will show the political will necessary to close negotiations and bring the conflict to its desired end. And we will devote considerable time and effort towards this goal.
Likewise, the historic steps being taken by Turkey and Armenia towards normalizing relations are very encouraging. Although this rapprochement is not linked to the Nagorno-Karabakh negotiations, both processes are critical for resolving the long-standing problems that have divided the South Caucasus and limited opportunities for regional growth. Settling these disputes will open doors to new levels of cooperation, trust, and commercial development region-wide.
Energy
Speaking of commercial development brings me to our next area of bilateral cooperation - energy. The U.S. and Azerbaijan have a long partnership in major strategic energy projects that have created linkages between West and East.
This week Azerbaijan is celebrating the 15th anniversary of the “Contract of the Century,” which eventually led to the construction of the Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil pipeline. Today this pipeline exports about 1 million barrels of oil per day. Having also completed the South Caucasus Gas Pipeline, Azerbaijan is now on the threshold of a new and even more promising phase of energy sector development. The recent signing of the Nabucco Intergovernmental Agreement was a major milestone for opening up a new natural gas corridor to Europe. It is important that Turkey and Azerbaijan build on this momentum and soon reach an agreement on gas pricing, transit, and any remaining issues needed to make the Southern Corridor a reality.
Such projects have not only unlocked Caspian energy resources for the world, but have also fueled Azerbaijan’s economy and secured a more independent economic future for the Azerbaijani people.
I realize that some have described U.S. and Russian energy policies as the next Great Game in Central Asia. This depiction is misleading. While there are always elements of competition in energy matters, as in any commercial area, the U.S. does not believe that energy security is a zero-sum game. We can gain more by working together than against one another. It is our firm belief that greater interconnectivity maximizes diverse sources and routes, ensures better market pricing, and protects against supply disruptions, for the good of all countries.
In that vein, we hope that Azerbaijan and its neighbors will continue to develop their production of oil and gas. We encourage ongoing discussions between Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Turkey, and other partners to find reliable, transparent ways to help this production reach European and other markets. And I assure you that the United States stands ready to keep working closely with Azerbaijan, our other friends in the region, and the private sector to strengthen and expand global energy supply.
Economic and Democratic Reform
While several major U.S. firms, such as Chevron and Exxon, operate in Azerbaijan’s energy industry, we’d frankly like to see more U.S. investment in the non-oil sectors. American companies can help Azerbaijan diversify its economy by bringing new technologies and skill sets. I’m confident that investment will flow as long as Azerbaijan continues its program of economic and democratic reform, which is the third pillar of our shared agenda.
Azerbaijan has already made significant strides in improving the country’s infrastructure and regulatory environment. These efforts earned it the distinction of being the “Top Reformer” in the World Bank’s Doing Business Report in 2009. Azerbaijan also became the first country to comply with the Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative, which sets the global standard for transparency in oil, gas, and mining. But more work remains to implement these reform processes and put into place the laws and institutions needed for businesses to thrive and oil wealth to improve the lives of all citizens.
Joining the World Trade Organization – an aspiration that Azerbaijan has pursued and the U.S. strongly supports – promises to be one of the fastest ways for the country to seize the benefits of foreign markets and attract international investors. At the same time, WTO rules require world class business standards, transparency, and a level playing field for all enterprises – small and large.
This means tackling the problem of corruption. Transparency International noted in its 2008 Corruption Perceptions Index that corruption remains a serious challenge in post-Soviet states, including Azerbaijan. Corruption effectively acts as an extra tax that weighs most heavily on small businesses. It corrodes the rule of law and cripples law enforcement. It robs citizens of the wealth derived from economic growth. Sadly, corruption is a common failing of human nature worldwide, the United States included. But a democratic government has the responsibility to ensure it doesn’t become a failing of the entire system by going undetected and unpunished.
And this begs the question: how do you fight corruption, as the Azerbaijani government has promised in its National Strategy, without an independent media that can bring problems to light? Free press and a strong civil society are some of the most effective tools for combating corruption and protecting our citizens. The continued detentions of opposition journalists, as well as the blocking of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, Voice of America, and BBC broadcasts in Azerbaijan, have raised significant concern in these areas. We’ve urged the Azerbaijani government to consider the impact of such actions in terms of its broader developmental and democratic goals.
Increased transparency in governance will help Azerbaijan realize the democratic principles it endorses and economic well-being it seeks. The United States provides technical assistance and training to help improve public expenditure planning, enhance the capacity of the commercial finance system, and strengthen private sector competitiveness. Our assistance activities support election reform and fund education for journalists. They also back NGOs that battle corruption and help youth groups that seek to create new spaces for democratic debate on the web. We believe that an active civil society complements the role of government and cultivates a dynamic nation.
Conclusion
The U.S., as a strong and steady friend of Azerbaijan, is committed to working together with the Azerbaijani government and its people to support the development of a secure, prosperous, and democratic state. It is increasingly obvious that Azerbaijan has become much more than a trading stop on the Silk Road. As Azerbaijan progresses down its chosen path of reform, its influence will continue to extend into political, economic, and cultural spheres, and its connections with the United States will continue to deepen.
A strong U.S.-Azerbaijan partnership is more important today than ever before. There are significant global challenges which neither of us can tackle alone. As with all bilateral relationships, there may be times when our interests do not coincide. But I hope I’ve clearly conveyed where we share common ground. Whether in the realm of security, energy, or economic and democratic reform, we have an historic opportunity to transform the region and help it achieve its geopolitical and economic potential. We need each other to accomplish this extraordinary task, and I’m optimistic that we’ll live up to the challenge.
Thank you and I wish you a successful conference.
William J. Burns
Under Secretary for Political Affairs
Georgetown University
Washington, DC
September 18, 2009
Thank you for that kind introduction and for organizing such an important conference. It’s an honor to join you today, especially Deputy Foreign Minister Azimov, Ambassador Aliyev, and my friend and former colleague David Kramer.
I was asked to discuss the U.S.-Azerbaijan relationship in about 15 minutes. That reminds me of a story involving George Bernard Shaw, the famous author, which highlights the challenge of brevity in public speaking. It seems that Shaw was hosting an event one day in London, and the first speaker came up to him and asked him how long he should speak for. Shaw told him he should probably limit his remarks to about fifteen minutes. "Fifteen minutes!" the speaker replied in horror. "How am I supposed to tell them everything I know in fifteen minutes ?" Shaw paused, and then responded: "In your case, I would advise you to speak very slowly."
In my case, you don’t have to worry about me going much beyond fifteen minutes, even if I speak very slowly.
Let me start by asking a simple question: why does Azerbaijan matter to the United States? Since you’re all attending this conference, I’m sure you already have a good sense of the importance of Azerbaijan, but sometimes the obvious bears repeating.
The U.S. views Azerbaijan as a strategic partner sitting at the crossroads of the Middle East, Europe, and Asia – regions whose future will shape American interests and foreign policy for many years to come. After gaining independence in 1991, Azerbaijan chose to open its rich oil and gas resources to Western markets and develop commercial partnerships with foreign investors, including U.S. companies. As a result, Azerbaijan has emerged as a key player for diversifying and securing global energy supply. Its pipelines have become main arteries connecting the Caspian Sea to the West. Its commitment to building its governing institutions and a modern economy has bolstered the country’s stability and stimulated economic growth.
A more stable and prosperous Azerbaijan promises a more stable and prosperous Caucasus. It promises more opportunities for peace in a complex region. And it promises a more reliable partner for fighting global threats - from terrorism to financial crises - which no single nation can overcome alone.
That’s why the United States places such importance on our relationship with Azerbaijan. We want Azerbaijan to succeed in becoming a market-based economy and a democratic state. We want it to live in peace with its neighbors and play a central role in bringing stability to the region. These goals are not only in Azerbaijan’s self-interest, but in our common interest.
My next question is then: how is the United States helping Azerbaijan achieve these objectives? Our bilateral agenda focuses on three main areas: security cooperation, energy, and economic and democratic reform.
Security
In the security realm, one of our highest priorities is fighting the threat of violent extremism. Azerbaijan – a moderate, secular state with a majority Muslim population – has been a key ally in this campaign. It has shared information, increased efforts to combat terrorism financing, and apprehended and prosecuted suspected terrorists.
As an active participant in NATO’s Partnership for Peace program, Azerbaijan is developing multifaceted security relationships with its neighbors in the region. It has made steadfast contributions to NATO and coalition efforts in Iraq, Afghanistan, and Kosovo, which, Mr. Ambassador, we greatly appreciate. In 2008, Azerbaijani troops completed five years of service in Iraq, often serving next to U.S. Marines. This year, the number of Azerbaijani peacekeepers in Afghanistan doubled from 45 to 90. Azerbaijan also provides valuable overflight, refueling, and landing rights for U.S. and coalition aircraft bound for Afghanistan and Iraq.
While Azerbaijan has made critical contributions to international security efforts, we recognize that the country has security concerns closer to home. Key to long-term stability in the region is achieving a peaceful resolution of the Nagorno – Karabakh conflict. Let me assure you that the President and Secretary Clinton are committed to doing everything possible to support that goal. We want to see Azerbaijan and Armenia living side-by-side in a peace that fosters mutual prosperity.
Towards that end, we recently announced the appointment of Ambassador Bob Bradtke as the next U.S. co-chair of the OSCE Minsk Group. Bob brings more than 36 years of Foreign Service experience to the position, reflecting the importance the United States places on this process.
We hope that the recent progress made in talks between Presidents Aliyev and Sargsian will lead to tangible results when they meet next month. The outline of a possible settlement has been clear for some time, though as with all things, the devil lies in the details and further discussions will be needed to satisfy the concerns of both sides. We trust that all parties will show the political will necessary to close negotiations and bring the conflict to its desired end. And we will devote considerable time and effort towards this goal.
Likewise, the historic steps being taken by Turkey and Armenia towards normalizing relations are very encouraging. Although this rapprochement is not linked to the Nagorno-Karabakh negotiations, both processes are critical for resolving the long-standing problems that have divided the South Caucasus and limited opportunities for regional growth. Settling these disputes will open doors to new levels of cooperation, trust, and commercial development region-wide.
Energy
Speaking of commercial development brings me to our next area of bilateral cooperation - energy. The U.S. and Azerbaijan have a long partnership in major strategic energy projects that have created linkages between West and East.
This week Azerbaijan is celebrating the 15th anniversary of the “Contract of the Century,” which eventually led to the construction of the Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil pipeline. Today this pipeline exports about 1 million barrels of oil per day. Having also completed the South Caucasus Gas Pipeline, Azerbaijan is now on the threshold of a new and even more promising phase of energy sector development. The recent signing of the Nabucco Intergovernmental Agreement was a major milestone for opening up a new natural gas corridor to Europe. It is important that Turkey and Azerbaijan build on this momentum and soon reach an agreement on gas pricing, transit, and any remaining issues needed to make the Southern Corridor a reality.
Such projects have not only unlocked Caspian energy resources for the world, but have also fueled Azerbaijan’s economy and secured a more independent economic future for the Azerbaijani people.
I realize that some have described U.S. and Russian energy policies as the next Great Game in Central Asia. This depiction is misleading. While there are always elements of competition in energy matters, as in any commercial area, the U.S. does not believe that energy security is a zero-sum game. We can gain more by working together than against one another. It is our firm belief that greater interconnectivity maximizes diverse sources and routes, ensures better market pricing, and protects against supply disruptions, for the good of all countries.
In that vein, we hope that Azerbaijan and its neighbors will continue to develop their production of oil and gas. We encourage ongoing discussions between Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Turkey, and other partners to find reliable, transparent ways to help this production reach European and other markets. And I assure you that the United States stands ready to keep working closely with Azerbaijan, our other friends in the region, and the private sector to strengthen and expand global energy supply.
Economic and Democratic Reform
While several major U.S. firms, such as Chevron and Exxon, operate in Azerbaijan’s energy industry, we’d frankly like to see more U.S. investment in the non-oil sectors. American companies can help Azerbaijan diversify its economy by bringing new technologies and skill sets. I’m confident that investment will flow as long as Azerbaijan continues its program of economic and democratic reform, which is the third pillar of our shared agenda.
Azerbaijan has already made significant strides in improving the country’s infrastructure and regulatory environment. These efforts earned it the distinction of being the “Top Reformer” in the World Bank’s Doing Business Report in 2009. Azerbaijan also became the first country to comply with the Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative, which sets the global standard for transparency in oil, gas, and mining. But more work remains to implement these reform processes and put into place the laws and institutions needed for businesses to thrive and oil wealth to improve the lives of all citizens.
Joining the World Trade Organization – an aspiration that Azerbaijan has pursued and the U.S. strongly supports – promises to be one of the fastest ways for the country to seize the benefits of foreign markets and attract international investors. At the same time, WTO rules require world class business standards, transparency, and a level playing field for all enterprises – small and large.
This means tackling the problem of corruption. Transparency International noted in its 2008 Corruption Perceptions Index that corruption remains a serious challenge in post-Soviet states, including Azerbaijan. Corruption effectively acts as an extra tax that weighs most heavily on small businesses. It corrodes the rule of law and cripples law enforcement. It robs citizens of the wealth derived from economic growth. Sadly, corruption is a common failing of human nature worldwide, the United States included. But a democratic government has the responsibility to ensure it doesn’t become a failing of the entire system by going undetected and unpunished.
And this begs the question: how do you fight corruption, as the Azerbaijani government has promised in its National Strategy, without an independent media that can bring problems to light? Free press and a strong civil society are some of the most effective tools for combating corruption and protecting our citizens. The continued detentions of opposition journalists, as well as the blocking of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, Voice of America, and BBC broadcasts in Azerbaijan, have raised significant concern in these areas. We’ve urged the Azerbaijani government to consider the impact of such actions in terms of its broader developmental and democratic goals.
Increased transparency in governance will help Azerbaijan realize the democratic principles it endorses and economic well-being it seeks. The United States provides technical assistance and training to help improve public expenditure planning, enhance the capacity of the commercial finance system, and strengthen private sector competitiveness. Our assistance activities support election reform and fund education for journalists. They also back NGOs that battle corruption and help youth groups that seek to create new spaces for democratic debate on the web. We believe that an active civil society complements the role of government and cultivates a dynamic nation.
Conclusion
The U.S., as a strong and steady friend of Azerbaijan, is committed to working together with the Azerbaijani government and its people to support the development of a secure, prosperous, and democratic state. It is increasingly obvious that Azerbaijan has become much more than a trading stop on the Silk Road. As Azerbaijan progresses down its chosen path of reform, its influence will continue to extend into political, economic, and cultural spheres, and its connections with the United States will continue to deepen.
A strong U.S.-Azerbaijan partnership is more important today than ever before. There are significant global challenges which neither of us can tackle alone. As with all bilateral relationships, there may be times when our interests do not coincide. But I hope I’ve clearly conveyed where we share common ground. Whether in the realm of security, energy, or economic and democratic reform, we have an historic opportunity to transform the region and help it achieve its geopolitical and economic potential. We need each other to accomplish this extraordinary task, and I’m optimistic that we’ll live up to the challenge.
Thank you and I wish you a successful conference.
William J. Burns
Under Secretary for Political Affairs
Georgetown University
Washington, DC
September 18, 2009
Monday, September 14, 2009
Five women in a Turkish sauna
Earlier this month, I went to soccer game in Lenkeran; Azerbaijan was playing Finland for the world cup qualifiers. We had about 8 PCVs come down south for the game. A few of us were hanging out at the beach that day and met this Finnish reporter. He was a really sweet guy, so we invited him to have dinner with us. He writes for the "Helsingin Sanomat", which is one of the biggest papers in the Nordic region. He told us he was going to send us a copy of the article, and he did! Of course, the article was in Finnish, but Tommi was sweet enough to translate it for us.
Note the impeccable usage of English, and that is his 2nd or 3rd language!
Five women in a Turkish sauna
Luckily the sun went down. Before the start of the match it was scorching so bad the feeling in Khazar-Lankaran stadium was like in a Turkish sauna.
It did fit the picture, since the Azeri think of themselves as a Turkish people. The loud bass of Turkish pop vibrating from the passing cars took thoughts to the beach vacations spent in Turkey, surely even for the national team players of Finland.
As a relief for the players, the temperature dropped several degrees in one whoosh by the time of the starting whistle. But the humidity of a Turkish sauna disappeared nowhere.
The players working on the pitch didn’t get to enjoy the same treatment as the spectators. With its red, the setting sun drew the figure of the Caucasus Mountains just before the last traces of the range dip into the Caspian Sea.
The first international match of the town was a big thing for Lankaran. In the centre the arrival of Finland was still marketed with large Sami Hyypiä-posters, although the match was sold out weeks ago. The stadium filled up almost an hour before the match, but the never-ending storm of clapping and shouting started even earlier.
A banderol behind one of the goals welcomed Finland in a threatening way while reminding of the true character of the “sea”: “You are in the deepest place of the biggest lake on Earth!”
Watching football in Azerbaidzhan drops to the same category as visiting the beach or buying alcohol: not for women. The laws of this secular but Muslim country don’t forbid any of these vices from women, but the breakers of etiquette are given a bad eye and made sure the whole neighbourhood knows about their actions.
Besides the Finnish fans there were so few women in the stadium of Lankaran that it’s possible to list the names of each one: Jaclyn Gilstrap, Hiba Hakam, Emma Jackson, Julia Richards and Rachel Wurdeman. Even these American voluntary workers wouldn’t have dared to enter the match as a group of girls and instead arrived with their male colleagues.
For the Azeri women the gates of the stadium don’t open even in the company of their own husbands.

Note the impeccable usage of English, and that is his 2nd or 3rd language!
Five women in a Turkish sauna
Luckily the sun went down. Before the start of the match it was scorching so bad the feeling in Khazar-Lankaran stadium was like in a Turkish sauna.
It did fit the picture, since the Azeri think of themselves as a Turkish people. The loud bass of Turkish pop vibrating from the passing cars took thoughts to the beach vacations spent in Turkey, surely even for the national team players of Finland.
As a relief for the players, the temperature dropped several degrees in one whoosh by the time of the starting whistle. But the humidity of a Turkish sauna disappeared nowhere.
The players working on the pitch didn’t get to enjoy the same treatment as the spectators. With its red, the setting sun drew the figure of the Caucasus Mountains just before the last traces of the range dip into the Caspian Sea.
The first international match of the town was a big thing for Lankaran. In the centre the arrival of Finland was still marketed with large Sami Hyypiä-posters, although the match was sold out weeks ago. The stadium filled up almost an hour before the match, but the never-ending storm of clapping and shouting started even earlier.
A banderol behind one of the goals welcomed Finland in a threatening way while reminding of the true character of the “sea”: “You are in the deepest place of the biggest lake on Earth!”
Watching football in Azerbaidzhan drops to the same category as visiting the beach or buying alcohol: not for women. The laws of this secular but Muslim country don’t forbid any of these vices from women, but the breakers of etiquette are given a bad eye and made sure the whole neighbourhood knows about their actions.
Besides the Finnish fans there were so few women in the stadium of Lankaran that it’s possible to list the names of each one: Jaclyn Gilstrap, Hiba Hakam, Emma Jackson, Julia Richards and Rachel Wurdeman. Even these American voluntary workers wouldn’t have dared to enter the match as a group of girls and instead arrived with their male colleagues.
For the Azeri women the gates of the stadium don’t open even in the company of their own husbands.
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