Halloween in (Liman) Lenkeran

Everyone show us your scariest face!



The coolest looking spider web cake ever! Good job Rach =)



The snack table =)



Rachel as the baker & Hiba as the black cat



Handing out "Mardi Gras" beads



Boys carving pumpkins



Leman (Jaclyn’s host sister) LOVES Halloween!



Girls carving pumpkins



Scooping out pumpkin guts!



Jaclyn was concentrating really hard!



It’s all about precision!



Batman: Be careful with that candle mask-boy!



The best dressed ladies in town



Students drawing the “funniest ghost face” & the “scariest pumpkin face”



Snacking on chipsies, cake, candy corn, and chay



The Lenkeran PCVs rock!!!



Jaclyn being all gangster with her counterparts ;-)

Increase in Violence Against Females on Television

As much as I love being a Peace Corps volunteer in Azerbaijan, a big part of me misses my job as an advocate at the District Attorney's Office - Family Violence Division. I miss being part of a group of dedicated, intelligent, and caring professionals. I am still on several list serves, so I constantly receive emails letting me know what is going on in the field. This morning, I was one of the recipients on a mass email from a fellow advocate who wanted a professional consultation about a case he/she was working on, and it made me feel nostalgic. I remember constantly thinking about my clients and how we could connect them with the resources they needed. Here in Lenkeran, I am always thinking about my students and their well being, but a part of me misses fighting crime!

The Parents Television Council just published a disturbing new study that found big increases in the scope of how violence against women and girls is being portrayed on television. This quick but critical MUST READ!

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Press Release

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
October 28, 2009

Women in Peril: PTC Report Finds Increase in Violence Against Females on Television

LOS ANGELES (October 28, 2009) – In a new special report, the Parents Television Council® found that storylines depicting violence against females are increasing and being shown more graphically and in ways that have not been seen in the history of television.

The PTC’s report, Women in Peril: A Look at TV’s Disturbing New Storyline Trend, examined fatal and nonfatal female victimizations on prime time broadcast television and found that there was a significant increase in all forms of female victimization storylines; an increase in the depiction of teen girls as victims; an increase in the use of female victimization as a punch line in comedy series; and an increase in the depiction of intimate partner violence.

“Our new research points to a disturbing trend: by depicting violence against women with increasing frequency, or as a trivial, even humorous matter, the broadcast networks may ultimately be contributing to a desensitized atmosphere in which people view aggression and violence directed at women as normative, even acceptable,” said PTC President Tim Winter.

“Just last week, actresses like Nicole Kidman testified before the Congress that Hollywood probably has contributed to violence against women by portraying them as weak sex objects. We all must pay attention to the fact that this is a problem in our society. The fact is that children are influenced by what they see on TV and that certainly includes media violence,” said PTC Director of Communications and Public Education Melissa Henson.

The study compares the qualitative and quantitative differences in the treatments of violence against women on prime time broadcast television between 2004 and 2009. PTC analysts examined all primetime programming (excluding sports and news programs) on the major broadcast networks (ABC, CBS, Fox, and NBC)* during the February and May 2004 and 2009 sweeps periods for a total of 209.5 hours of programming.

Major Findings

Incidents of violence against women and teenage girls are increasing on television at rates that far exceed the overall increases in violence on television. Violence, irrespective of gender, on television increased only 2% from 2004 to 2009, while incidents of violence against women increased 120% during that same period.

The most frequent type of violence against women on television was beating (29%), followed by credible threats of violence (18%), shooting (11%), rape (8%), stabbing (6%), and torture (2%). Violence against women resulted in death 19% of the time.

Violence towards women or the graphic consequences of violence tends overwhelmingly to be depicted (92%) rather than implied (5%) or described (3%).

Every network but ABC demonstrated a significant increase in the number of storylines that included violence against women between 2004 and 2009.

Although female victims were primarily of adult age, collectively, there was a 400% increase in the depiction of teen girls as victims across all networks from 2004 to 2009.

Fox stood out for using violence against women as a punch line in its comedies -- in particular Family Guy and American Dad -- trivializing the gravity of the issue of violence against women.

From 2004 to 2009 there was an 81% increase in incidences of intimate partner violence on television.

“Our study today serves as a clarion call to all Americans about a critical issue with dire consequences. We are calling on television producers and network executives, members of the advertising community, elected representatives and appointed government officials, and most importantly, the viewing public, to stand up against this disturbing trend. In a country where more than 60% of children have been exposed to violence in their daily lives, according to recent research by Justice Department, we must take the utmost care not to normalize violent behavior – especially violence against women – through our television programming,” Winter added.

To read at the full report and view video clips from the study, visit:

http://www.parentstv.org/womeninperil.

*CW and MyNetworkTV did not exist in 2004.


To speak with a representative from the Parents Television Council, please contact Kelly Oliver (ext. 140) or Megan Franko (ext. 148) at (703) 683-5004.

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The Parents Television Council™ (www.parentstv.org®) is a non-partisan education organization advocating responsible entertainment. It was founded in 1995 to ensure that children are not constantly assaulted by sex, violence and profanity on television and in other media. This national grassroots organization has more than 1.3 million members across the United States, and works with television producers, broadcasters, networks and sponsors in an effort to stem the flow of harmful and negative messages targeted to children. The PTC also works with elected and appointed government officials to enforce broadcast decency standards. Most importantly, the PTC produces critical research and publications documenting the dramatic increase in sex, violence and profanity in entertainment. This information is provided free of charge so parents can make informed viewing choices for their own families.

All things Fall in Lenkeran

Every Tuesday I go to Lenkeran State University for my “Teach English” class with the third year English majors. Next year they will have their teaching practicum at the Turkish school, and I think it would great if they learned how to lesson plan and used a variety of teaching methods in their classroom – so that is why I started this class, to get them excited about teaching before they even step foot in a classroom. I absolutely adore these students; they are so dedicated and enthusiastic about learning and actively participating in every lesson!

Anyway, on my way back from the university today, I spotted a beautiful set of trees that were totally picturesque! So after lunch I decided to go for a walk and take a few pictures! The weather was beautiful, and this is what I got...

A Quick Family Violence Update

President Obama nominated Susan B. Carbon as director of the Office on Violence Against Women in the Department of Justice.

Obama nominates N.H. judge to Justice post

A top judge of New Hampshire's family court is going to Washington for a new job.

President Obama annnounced this evening he is nominating Susan B. Carbon as director of the Office on Violence Against Women in the Department of Justice.

Carbon, first appointed to the bench in 1991, has been a supervisory Judge of the New Hampshire Judicial Branch Family Division since 1996. She is a member of the Governor’s Commission on Domestic and Sexual Violence and, until recently, was chairwoman of New Hampshire’s Domestic Violence Fatality Review Committee.

Her resume, provided by the White House, is below:

Susan B. Carbon, Nominee for Director, Office on Violence Against Women, Department of Justice
Susan Carbon, first appointed to the bench in 1991, has been a Supervisory Judge of the New Hampshire Judicial Branch Family Division since 1996. She is a member of the Governor’s Commission on Domestic and Sexual Violence and, until recently, chaired New Hampshire’s Domestic Violence Fatality Review Committee. Judge Carbon was also a President of the National Council of Juvenile and Family Court Judges (NCJFCJ) from 2007 to 2008 where she still frequently serves as a faculty member. She also serves as faculty for the National Judicial Institute on Domestic Violence - a partnership of the U.S. Department of Justice’s Office on Violence Against Women, the Family Violence Prevention Fund, and the NCJFCJ. In September 2006, she chaired Firearms and Domestic Violence: A National Summit for Community Safety in Los Angeles, an initiative funded by the U.S. Department of Justice. She also chaired the project which produced the multidisciplinary Effective Issuance and Enforcement of Orders of Protection in Domestic Violence Cases (The Burgundy Book), a document used throughout the country and U.S. territories to guide professionals in their work around civil protection orders. Judge Carbon has trained judges and other professionals across the country and internationally on topics related to family violence, firearms, child custody, and child protection. She has published extensively on these and other topics, including on judicial selection and retention and judicial administration. She is a graduate of the University of Wisconsin-Madison and the DePaul University College of Law.

E-mail|Link|Comments (0) Posted by Foon Rhee, deputy national political editor October 1, 2009 07:04 PM

http://www.boston.com/news/politics/politicalintelligence/2009/10/obama_nominates_8.html

U.S.- Azerbaijan Relations

Below is the text from a speech made by Under Secretary for Political Affairs, William J. Burns.

Thank you for that kind introduction and for organizing such an important conference. It’s an honor to join you today, especially Deputy Foreign Minister Azimov, Ambassador Aliyev, and my friend and former colleague David Kramer.

I was asked to discuss the U.S.-Azerbaijan relationship in about 15 minutes. That reminds me of a story involving George Bernard Shaw, the famous author, which highlights the challenge of brevity in public speaking. It seems that Shaw was hosting an event one day in London, and the first speaker came up to him and asked him how long he should speak for. Shaw told him he should probably limit his remarks to about fifteen minutes. "Fifteen minutes!" the speaker replied in horror. "How am I supposed to tell them everything I know in fifteen minutes ?" Shaw paused, and then responded: "In your case, I would advise you to speak very slowly."

In my case, you don’t have to worry about me going much beyond fifteen minutes, even if I speak very slowly.
Let me start by asking a simple question: why does Azerbaijan matter to the United States? Since you’re all attending this conference, I’m sure you already have a good sense of the importance of Azerbaijan, but sometimes the obvious bears repeating.

The U.S. views Azerbaijan as a strategic partner sitting at the crossroads of the Middle East, Europe, and Asia – regions whose future will shape American interests and foreign policy for many years to come. After gaining independence in 1991, Azerbaijan chose to open its rich oil and gas resources to Western markets and develop commercial partnerships with foreign investors, including U.S. companies. As a result, Azerbaijan has emerged as a key player for diversifying and securing global energy supply. Its pipelines have become main arteries connecting the Caspian Sea to the West. Its commitment to building its governing institutions and a modern economy has bolstered the country’s stability and stimulated economic growth.

A more stable and prosperous Azerbaijan promises a more stable and prosperous Caucasus. It promises more opportunities for peace in a complex region. And it promises a more reliable partner for fighting global threats - from terrorism to financial crises - which no single nation can overcome alone.

That’s why the United States places such importance on our relationship with Azerbaijan. We want Azerbaijan to succeed in becoming a market-based economy and a democratic state. We want it to live in peace with its neighbors and play a central role in bringing stability to the region. These goals are not only in Azerbaijan’s self-interest, but in our common interest.

My next question is then: how is the United States helping Azerbaijan achieve these objectives? Our bilateral agenda focuses on three main areas: security cooperation, energy, and economic and democratic reform.

Security
In the security realm, one of our highest priorities is fighting the threat of violent extremism. Azerbaijan – a moderate, secular state with a majority Muslim population – has been a key ally in this campaign. It has shared information, increased efforts to combat terrorism financing, and apprehended and prosecuted suspected terrorists.
As an active participant in NATO’s Partnership for Peace program, Azerbaijan is developing multifaceted security relationships with its neighbors in the region. It has made steadfast contributions to NATO and coalition efforts in Iraq, Afghanistan, and Kosovo, which, Mr. Ambassador, we greatly appreciate. In 2008, Azerbaijani troops completed five years of service in Iraq, often serving next to U.S. Marines. This year, the number of Azerbaijani peacekeepers in Afghanistan doubled from 45 to 90. Azerbaijan also provides valuable overflight, refueling, and landing rights for U.S. and coalition aircraft bound for Afghanistan and Iraq.

While Azerbaijan has made critical contributions to international security efforts, we recognize that the country has security concerns closer to home. Key to long-term stability in the region is achieving a peaceful resolution of the Nagorno – Karabakh conflict. Let me assure you that the President and Secretary Clinton are committed to doing everything possible to support that goal. We want to see Azerbaijan and Armenia living side-by-side in a peace that fosters mutual prosperity.

Towards that end, we recently announced the appointment of Ambassador Bob Bradtke as the next U.S. co-chair of the OSCE Minsk Group. Bob brings more than 36 years of Foreign Service experience to the position, reflecting the importance the United States places on this process.

We hope that the recent progress made in talks between Presidents Aliyev and Sargsian will lead to tangible results when they meet next month. The outline of a possible settlement has been clear for some time, though as with all things, the devil lies in the details and further discussions will be needed to satisfy the concerns of both sides. We trust that all parties will show the political will necessary to close negotiations and bring the conflict to its desired end. And we will devote considerable time and effort towards this goal.

Likewise, the historic steps being taken by Turkey and Armenia towards normalizing relations are very encouraging. Although this rapprochement is not linked to the Nagorno-Karabakh negotiations, both processes are critical for resolving the long-standing problems that have divided the South Caucasus and limited opportunities for regional growth. Settling these disputes will open doors to new levels of cooperation, trust, and commercial development region-wide.

Energy
Speaking of commercial development brings me to our next area of bilateral cooperation - energy. The U.S. and Azerbaijan have a long partnership in major strategic energy projects that have created linkages between West and East.
This week Azerbaijan is celebrating the 15th anniversary of the “Contract of the Century,” which eventually led to the construction of the Baku-Tbilisi-Ceyhan oil pipeline. Today this pipeline exports about 1 million barrels of oil per day. Having also completed the South Caucasus Gas Pipeline, Azerbaijan is now on the threshold of a new and even more promising phase of energy sector development. The recent signing of the Nabucco Intergovernmental Agreement was a major milestone for opening up a new natural gas corridor to Europe. It is important that Turkey and Azerbaijan build on this momentum and soon reach an agreement on gas pricing, transit, and any remaining issues needed to make the Southern Corridor a reality.

Such projects have not only unlocked Caspian energy resources for the world, but have also fueled Azerbaijan’s economy and secured a more independent economic future for the Azerbaijani people.

I realize that some have described U.S. and Russian energy policies as the next Great Game in Central Asia. This depiction is misleading. While there are always elements of competition in energy matters, as in any commercial area, the U.S. does not believe that energy security is a zero-sum game. We can gain more by working together than against one another. It is our firm belief that greater interconnectivity maximizes diverse sources and routes, ensures better market pricing, and protects against supply disruptions, for the good of all countries.
In that vein, we hope that Azerbaijan and its neighbors will continue to develop their production of oil and gas. We encourage ongoing discussions between Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Turkey, and other partners to find reliable, transparent ways to help this production reach European and other markets. And I assure you that the United States stands ready to keep working closely with Azerbaijan, our other friends in the region, and the private sector to strengthen and expand global energy supply.

Economic and Democratic Reform
While several major U.S. firms, such as Chevron and Exxon, operate in Azerbaijan’s energy industry, we’d frankly like to see more U.S. investment in the non-oil sectors. American companies can help Azerbaijan diversify its economy by bringing new technologies and skill sets. I’m confident that investment will flow as long as Azerbaijan continues its program of economic and democratic reform, which is the third pillar of our shared agenda.

Azerbaijan has already made significant strides in improving the country’s infrastructure and regulatory environment. These efforts earned it the distinction of being the “Top Reformer” in the World Bank’s Doing Business Report in 2009. Azerbaijan also became the first country to comply with the Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative, which sets the global standard for transparency in oil, gas, and mining. But more work remains to implement these reform processes and put into place the laws and institutions needed for businesses to thrive and oil wealth to improve the lives of all citizens.

Joining the World Trade Organization – an aspiration that Azerbaijan has pursued and the U.S. strongly supports – promises to be one of the fastest ways for the country to seize the benefits of foreign markets and attract international investors. At the same time, WTO rules require world class business standards, transparency, and a level playing field for all enterprises – small and large.

This means tackling the problem of corruption. Transparency International noted in its 2008 Corruption Perceptions Index that corruption remains a serious challenge in post-Soviet states, including Azerbaijan. Corruption effectively acts as an extra tax that weighs most heavily on small businesses. It corrodes the rule of law and cripples law enforcement. It robs citizens of the wealth derived from economic growth. Sadly, corruption is a common failing of human nature worldwide, the United States included. But a democratic government has the responsibility to ensure it doesn’t become a failing of the entire system by going undetected and unpunished.
And this begs the question: how do you fight corruption, as the Azerbaijani government has promised in its National Strategy, without an independent media that can bring problems to light? Free press and a strong civil society are some of the most effective tools for combating corruption and protecting our citizens. The continued detentions of opposition journalists, as well as the blocking of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, Voice of America, and BBC broadcasts in Azerbaijan, have raised significant concern in these areas. We’ve urged the Azerbaijani government to consider the impact of such actions in terms of its broader developmental and democratic goals.

Increased transparency in governance will help Azerbaijan realize the democratic principles it endorses and economic well-being it seeks. The United States provides technical assistance and training to help improve public expenditure planning, enhance the capacity of the commercial finance system, and strengthen private sector competitiveness. Our assistance activities support election reform and fund education for journalists. They also back NGOs that battle corruption and help youth groups that seek to create new spaces for democratic debate on the web. We believe that an active civil society complements the role of government and cultivates a dynamic nation.

Conclusion
The U.S., as a strong and steady friend of Azerbaijan, is committed to working together with the Azerbaijani government and its people to support the development of a secure, prosperous, and democratic state. It is increasingly obvious that Azerbaijan has become much more than a trading stop on the Silk Road. As Azerbaijan progresses down its chosen path of reform, its influence will continue to extend into political, economic, and cultural spheres, and its connections with the United States will continue to deepen.

A strong U.S.-Azerbaijan partnership is more important today than ever before. There are significant global challenges which neither of us can tackle alone. As with all bilateral relationships, there may be times when our interests do not coincide. But I hope I’ve clearly conveyed where we share common ground. Whether in the realm of security, energy, or economic and democratic reform, we have an historic opportunity to transform the region and help it achieve its geopolitical and economic potential. We need each other to accomplish this extraordinary task, and I’m optimistic that we’ll live up to the challenge.

Thank you and I wish you a successful conference.

William J. Burns
Under Secretary for Political Affairs
Georgetown University
Washington, DC
September 18, 2009

Five women in a Turkish sauna

Earlier this month, I went to soccer game in Lenkeran; Azerbaijan was playing Finland for the world cup qualifiers. We had about 8 PCVs come down south for the game. A few of us were hanging out at the beach that day and met this Finnish reporter. He was a really sweet guy, so we invited him to have dinner with us. He writes for the "Helsingin Sanomat", which is one of the biggest papers in the Nordic region. He told us he was going to send us a copy of the article, and he did! Of course, the article was in Finnish, but Tommi was sweet enough to translate it for us.

Note the impeccable usage of English, and that is his 2nd or 3rd language!



Five women in a Turkish sauna

Luckily the sun went down. Before the start of the match it was scorching so bad the feeling in Khazar-Lankaran stadium was like in a Turkish sauna.

It did fit the picture, since the Azeri think of themselves as a Turkish people. The loud bass of Turkish pop vibrating from the passing cars took thoughts to the beach vacations spent in Turkey, surely even for the national team players of Finland.

As a relief for the players, the temperature dropped several degrees in one whoosh by the time of the starting whistle. But the humidity of a Turkish sauna disappeared nowhere.

The players working on the pitch didn’t get to enjoy the same treatment as the spectators. With its red, the setting sun drew the figure of the Caucasus Mountains just before the last traces of the range dip into the Caspian Sea.

The first international match of the town was a big thing for Lankaran. In the centre the arrival of Finland was still marketed with large Sami Hyypiä-posters, although the match was sold out weeks ago. The stadium filled up almost an hour before the match, but the never-ending storm of clapping and shouting started even earlier.

A banderol behind one of the goals welcomed Finland in a threatening way while reminding of the true character of the “sea”: “You are in the deepest place of the biggest lake on Earth!”

Watching football in Azerbaidzhan drops to the same category as visiting the beach or buying alcohol: not for women. The laws of this secular but Muslim country don’t forbid any of these vices from women, but the breakers of etiquette are given a bad eye and made sure the whole neighbourhood knows about their actions.

Besides the Finnish fans there were so few women in the stadium of Lankaran that it’s possible to list the names of each one: Jaclyn Gilstrap, Hiba Hakam, Emma Jackson, Julia Richards and Rachel Wurdeman. Even these American voluntary workers wouldn’t have dared to enter the match as a group of girls and instead arrived with their male colleagues.

For the Azeri women the gates of the stadium don’t open even in the company of their own husbands.

On the news...

http://english.aljazeera.net/news/europe/2009/07/200972183710343820.html

Azerbaijan: Baku Tackles Human Trafficking, But Ignores Domestic Violence

Jessica Powley Hayden: 6/12/09
Eurasia Insight

While Azerbaijan is getting tough on human trafficking, officials in Baku are lagging on efforts to address the more pervasive problem of domestic violence. Experts say the dichotomy reveals a willingness to combat foreign ills while turning a blind eye to those closer to home.
In recent meetings held across Azerbaijan, facilitated by the Azerbaijan Women's Bar Association (WBA), women have recounted tales of excessive verbal, emotional, and physical abuse -- and the inability to escape from the hands of their abusers.
"When I was a teenager, I witnessed how a young wife was repeatedly and brutally beaten by her husband," recalled a participant from the town of Lankaron, not far from Azerbaijan's Iranian border. After the husband broke both of his wife's hands she attempted to escape her village. "The woman was told by her neighbors; 'you are a young wife and you have to get through it and endure.'"
Although no reliable official statistics on domestic violence exist, several surveys conducted by international organizations between 2001 and 2004 found that 30 to 43 percent of women in Azerbaijan reported suffering from domestic abuse.
The government has tried to stop violence against women with varying degrees of enthusiasm. Baku has invested substantial resources in combating international human trafficking. In 2005, parliament passed a law creating a national anti-trafficking coordinator in the Ministry of the Interior. Hundreds of traffickers (mainly low-level) have since been brought before Azerbaijani courts, according to ministry statistics.
But unlike trafficking, the country has failed to address domestic violence against women and children. A draft law criminalizing domestic violence was introduced into parliament in 2007. It has languished in committee ever since.
Although some members of parliament support the measure, others criticize the law as unnecessary, describing it as an attack on Azerbaijani values. "Families are not supposed to be run by laws, but by traditions," parliamentarian Musa Quliyev, a member of the member of the governing Yeni Azerbaijan Party and deputy director of the Standing Committee on Social Policy, told the Zerkalo-Ayna daily shortly after the law was introduced.
A 2006 survey by the US Agency for International Development and Azerbaijan's State Statistical Committee and Ministry of Health underlined the scope of support for that notion. Nearly 57 percent of 2,558 male respondents believed that a husband was justified in beating his wife; 49 percent of 8,444 female respondents said the same. Forty-two percent of respondents believed that a beating was acceptable, if a wife leaves the house without telling her husband. Thirty-one percent concurred, if a wife argues with her husband.
It is not only members of parliament, however, who find fault with the draft law. Sabina Gahramanova, president of the WBA, explains that much of the domestic violence law was "cut and paste" from international sources. This has created a sense that the law is not a home-grown piece of legislation.
It also provides an easy target for detractors. MP Quliyev charged that "European organizations" and "the Christian world" promote such laws "to destroy the Muslim-Turkish family notion."
These days, Quliyev remains a fierce opponent of the bill. Asked in February by 525 Gazeta, an online news site, about the inclusion of the domestic violence law on parliament's spring agenda, he reiterated his earlier stance: "I think there is no need for this law in Azerbaijan. It will not bring any benefit to . . . society, but harm," he stated.
International appearances appear to be a significant factor in Azerbaijan's decision to fight trafficking while ignoring domestic violence against women. "I think [Azerbaijan] has been focusing on trafficking because it is more of an international issue," commented Arzu Geybullayeva, an Azerbaijani analyst specializing in women's rights with the European Stability Initiative (ESI), a Berlin-based research institute. Azerbaijan "cares a lot about its image abroad," so it is more willing to take steps to address the problem, Geybullayeva added.
The presidential administration declined to comment to EurasiaNet on the perception of a discrepancy in addressing women's rights issues.
"There is considerable international pressure to act on [human trafficking] right now," said New York University anthropologist Sally E. Merry. "It offers governments a chance to regulate immigration and focuses on external threats to a country in the form of traffickers who may be outsiders."
Taking on domestic violence, on the other hand, is less palatable to governments like Azerbaijan because it involves "rethinking gender roles in the family," Merry said. Local experts agree that the rigid gender-role mentality will not be easy to change.
A nascent women's movement, however, is attempting to do just that. More non-governmental organizations are focusing on women's issues and organizing trainings to discuss issues such as trafficking, early marriages, and domestic violence. Several youth groups have taken up the issue as well.
Activists are quick to point out the challenges they face in overcoming prejudices and stigmas in Azerbaijani society: in a male-dominated society, many women are often isolated and feel no sense of solidarity with other women. In addition, women are well aware of the lack of political will to promote change. "Violence against women is a taboo subject in Azerbaijan," noted ESI's Geybullayeva.
Rashad Shirinov, a self-proclaimed feminist and founder of the AN Network youth movement, laments the absence of a broader intellectual gender movement in Azerbaijan. "There are organizations that organize seminars, but they don't turn into a movement," he explained.
Most Azerbaijanis involved in women's rights campaigns see little prospect for a full-fledged women's rights movement. "Our lives are hard," said Khalisa Shahverdiyeva, project director for the WBA's Legal Aid Project. Given economic and societal pressures, "most women don't have the time [to get involved]."
While young Azerbaijanis often "want to change things," she added, "they need support." Few, however, expect the government support activists seek will come anytime soon.
Gahramanova, the WBA president, believes that expanding public awareness is the first step. "Our work can be compared to drops of water," she said. "Drop by drop, we can make changes."
Editor's Note: Jessica Powley Hayden is a freelance reporter based in Baku.

Peer Support Network (PSN)

The PSN is a Volunteer-organized, developed and coordinated program to maintain a diverse group of PCVs selected and trained to provide confidential, non-judgmental emotional support to their peers.
Peer Supporters have been trained in how to listen and help you successfully work through whatever it is you are going through. They are open and willing to listen to you, any time, any day of the week.

How it works:
Volunteers and Trainees are encouraged to take advantage of this service. Each of the Peer Supporters has a phone dedicated to use for support purposes only, paid for by Peace Corps. If you would like to talk to a Peer Supporter, merely text message or buzz (visov) them and they will call you back. As this service is not meant to be used in cases of emergency, the Peer Supporter may not be able to call you back if they are in the middle of a meeting or class. If this is the case, he or she will let you know immediately about when he or she will be able to call you back and give you his/her full attention – and that will always be within 24 hours of your first call.

Note on Confidentiality:

All phone calls are completely confidential. Peer Supporters do not discuss specific cases among themselves or with anyone else.

Please note: in situations where it’s apparent that the PCV/PCT may physically hurt himself/herself or others, or in cases of significant safety and security incidents that place the PCV/PCT in immediately danger, confidentiality will be extended to the PCMO. The Peer Supporter will encourage the PCV/PCT to talk to the PCMO first, and will inform the PCV/PCT involved of the Peer Supporter’s responsibility to extend confidentiality to the PCMO in such cases.

A little bit about us...

Charlie
English Education, Oguz
Hey dudes, my name is Charlie and I’m 25. I live in Oguz, which is a small town, and have no site mates (but an awesome rayon-mate). I am fond of long walks, philosophy, the rap music, the movie-films, and a nice glass of wine. Telephone me sometime and we shall have a lovely discourse.

Jon
English Education, Bilasuvar
Hey, my name is Jon Elkin and I am an English Education Volunteer in Bilasuvar. I am 23 years old. I’m originally from Boston, Massachusetts, and I am a huge Red Sox fan. The Peace Corps experience is unique for everyone so please don’t hesitate to call whenever you would like some support.

Emma
Youth Development, Shamaxi
Hi! My name is Emma Jackson. I'm a 25-year-old married volunteer. I work in Youth Development at the Russian School in Shamaxi. I love hobbies, from afghan crocheting to Ziploc-bag-washing. If you ever need to talk or vent, or even just to celebrate, give me a call!

Hiba
Youth Development, Lankaran
Hi! My name is Hiba Hakam. I'm a 23-year-old Youth Development Volunteer living in Lankaran and working for a Human Rights Organization. I'm from Dallas, Texas, and graduated with a degree in Social Work. "Feel free to call me and emotionally barf in my ear!"TM.

Stuffed Eggplants, Peppers and Tomatoes / Badimjan, Biber ve Pomidor Dolmasi

Straight from "Farida's Azerbaijani Cookbook"

This is probably the most popular dish prepared in Azerbaijan in summer. When vegetables and fruits are in abundance, Azerbaijani women like to stuff them :) They stuff eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, onions, quince and even apples! The general name for all the stuffed yummies is Dolma, which means stuffed in Azeri. Dolma of eggplants, peppers and tomatoes is everybody’s favorite and I don’t know anyone in Azerbaijan who doesn’t like it!

Usually the three vegetables are cooked at the same time in the same pan. The stuffing is delicious on its own and I’ll admit I usually make extra and secretly eat it with a chunk of fresh bread and let the rest stuff the vegetables:) In my family we sometimes add split peas to the filling and I like it a lot, but it is only a matter of taste and is therefore optional. Also, eggplant shells are prepared in various ways before they are stuffed. Some blanch them in boiling water, some fry, some make a slit alongside the vegetable, some simply cut off the hat, scoop out the flesh and fill up the cavity with the stuffing.

Here’s the recipe, step by step.

Serves 4 to 6

INGREDIENTS
1-2 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter

For the Shells
6 small black skinned eggplants (about 12 cm long and 4 cm in diameter)
6 medium green bell peppers
6 large firm tomatoes
salt
ground black pepper

For the Stuffing
4 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified butter
1 1/2 pounds (700 g) ground beef or lamb
2 medium onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 medium green pepper (pointed or bell), finely chopped
chopped tomato pulp* (see the recipe)
1 cup chopped fresh basil
½ cup cooked yellow split peas (1/4 cup dried, boiled in slightly salted water and drained), optional
salt, to taste
ground black pepper, to taste

Method:

1. Prepare the shells.

Eggplants: There are two ways to prepare the eggplant shells. Choose one you like better.

Method 1: This is the easier method and takes less time than the second. Cut off the stalk end of the eggplants. Make a lengthways slit in each taking care not to cut right through. Fill a pan with water and bring to a boil. Gently drop the eggplants into the boiling water, and simmer for about 2 minutes, using a slotted spoon to keep them submerged. Remove and set aside. When cool enough to handle, remove the seeds from the eggplants with a spoon or by rubbing the eggplants gently between the palms of your hands to let the seeds fall out. Set aside.

Method 2: My favorite method, although requires more time and effort to prepare. Here instead of blanching the eggplants fry them before stuffing. Using a vegetable peeler or knife, remove about 3-4 lengthwise strips of skin from the eggplant to create a striped effect. Make a lengthways slit in each eggplant taking care not to cut too deep through. Soak the eggplants in a large bowl full of cold water with 2 tablespoons salt for 20 minutes to remove any bitterness. Drain, and gently pat dry. Fry the eggplants in 4 tablespoons oil or butter (add more if necessary) on all sides for about 10 minutes, or until evenly brown. Remove, drain on a paper-towel lined plate.

Peppers: Start cutting tops off the green peppers about 1/2 inches (4 cm) from the stems and stop when you obtain lids attached to the peppers. Remove the seeds and ribs and set aside.

Tomatoes: Remove the stems. Start cutting tops off the tomatoes about 1/2 inches (4 cm) from the stems and stop when you obtain lids attached to the tomatoes. Scoop out the pulp, finely chop it and reserve for the stuffing*.

2. Make the stuffing. In a frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the ground meat and cook for about 3 minutes or until it is no longer pink. Add the onions and cook for 15 more minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is golden brown. Add the chopped pepper and tomato pulp and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove the pan from heat. Add the fresh herbs, and if using, cooked yellow split peas. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well.

3. Sprinkle inside of the shells with some salt and black pepper and fill them with the stuffing. Cover the top of the peppers and tomatoes with their lids. Place the vegetables side by site in a deep frying pan. Pour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or clarified over the top. Cover and simmer over low to medium heat for about 40 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender (but not mushy!) and the liquid has reduced to the syrupy consistency.

Nush Olsun!

Look at the pretty pictures on this website!
http://www.azcookbook.com/stuffed-eggplants-peppers-and-tomatoes-badimjan-biber-pomidor-dolmasi/

F.L.E.X. (Future Leaders Exchange) Program Camp in Lenkeran

*** A Few Facts***
1) A US government-sponsored program for secondary school students throughout Eurasia
2) Provides scholarship funding for students to travel to the US, attend a US high school for a full academic year, and live with a US host family
3) Established in 1992 as the centerpiece of the Eurasian Secondary School Initiative under the FREEDOM Support Act
4) Funding is provided by the US Department of State

A group of twenty outstanding students from around Lenkeran were exclusively invited to attend an extensive, week long, FLEX preparatory camp in July. Over the course of the week, students developed their knowledge of test taking skills; essay writing abilities; and interviewing proficiency.
Three Azerbaijani English teachers and two former FLEX alumni were present during the course of the week and facilitated the sessions with the help of two Peace Corps Volunteers. The week began with an interactive introduction activity to get everyone acquainted; from there we began addressing the curriculum areas mentioned above. Former FLEX students developed a PowerPoint presentation to familiarize students with the program’s history and goals, along with giving information about the different stages of the application process.
In the test-taking component, students learned how to correctly complete a personal information form, and they were informed about items that need to be brought on the day of the test. The facilitator discussed rules of testing and the consequences of breaking those rules. Throughout the week, students practiced sample tests, and timed pre-TOFEL tests. The participants were also given sample tests to
complete at home. Each student’s scores were documented and they were given a specific improvement plan based on their test taking strengths and challenges.
As for the essay-writing component, students learned the basic strategies of essay writing, including: organization, content, and the mechanics of a well-structured essay. Students were given the opportunity to brainstorm specific essay topics as a group, and individually. Each student was given essays to complete at home, which were graded by the facilitators. At the end of the week students wrote
timed essays as they would during the actual FLEX application process.
The interview a major component of the FLEX application procedure. Participants were taught how to positively present themselves during an interview. Students practiced good eye contact, appropriate facial expressions, posture, and speech volume, along with giving creative and informative answers to the interviewer’s questions. During the mock interviews students gave answers to questions similar to those they would during the third round of the FLEX application.
At some point during the FLEX application, students are asked to participate in a group activity with other FLEX applicants. This gives the administrators an opportunity to watch the students interact with their peers. We developed mock group activities for students to participate in and at the completion of each activity the facilitators gave feedback to the students.
Upon the completion of camp, four students were given awards based upon best testing, interviewing, essay writing, and over all improvement.

Critical Periods in the Life of a Peace Corps Volunteer

AZ 6: 7 to 10 Months of Service:

Problems
• Slow work progress
• Language plateaus
• Cross-cultural frustration

Behaviors
• Comparison to others
• Over zealousness
• Homesickness
• Uncertainty about adaptation abilities
• Intolerance with host culture

Coping Skills
• Reunions
• Cards, letters to home
• Talk with program managers about work issues
• Simple projects; personal crafts, meeting,
gardening
• Work on friendships
• Refer to culture shock information

Oh Azerbaijan!

I did not write most of the following statements, but I totally live by them. It's interesting how I don't even notice these anymore...

Getting stuck in traffic behind various farm animals
Being watched by Ilham and Heydar eyes everywhere you go
Developing community projects to increase your chances of questing (amongst other reasons of course)
Jumping over fire and throwing your hat at people to celebrate Spring
Not showering for two weeks at site then twice a day in Baku
Living between a war zone and Iran across from Iraq
Being called "Dollar" at the bazaar
Dude on dude "action"
Dudes dancing in front of the mirror whilst and admiring themselves
Bread having more uses than a Leatherman
Explaining to locals that you can't take a bus or train to America
Answering the same 5 or 6 questions everyday
Being called "Ingilis" everywhere you go
Eating a bowl full of assorted guts
Crapping in a hole sometimes and feeling really accomplished when you don’t get pee on your shoes
Cheap Azeri vodka that can double as nail polish remover
Bone-jarring marshrutka rides
Mass anarchy at ATM's- putting in people codes for them
Holding a completely random woman's toddler while she stands on a bus
Watching hours upon hours of wedding videos (usually the day after the wedding you actually attended)
Getting off a marshrutka to find that someone has paid your fare!
Khash- a national dish that is eaten mostly by men after a night of heavy drinking. It is traditionally consumed early in the mornings, with some vodka (you gotta have vodka to be able to enjoy boiled cows feet). The below the knee parts including the hooves get placed in a large pan of cold water and left simmering over night. YUM!


***Old traditions***

Sitting at the corner of a table means you'll never get married
Sweeping at night is bad luck
The Evil Eye protects you from, evil
Watering the ground to cool it off
Balder dudes are supposed to have more wives
Cold water makes you sick
Wind makes you sick
Sitting on the ground makes you sick/infertile
Stepping on people’s feet should be followed by a handshake
At wedding a normal toast is to wish for the new couple to have 7 boys and 1 girl
Elders get respect
Only young boys are allowed to ride bicycles (for the most part)
Walls are built around houses to "protect" the women
Women generally can't leave the house unless they teach for example
Not throwing bread away, placing it on ledges
Don't put bottles in your pocket
Taking shoes off inside homes
Fruit vodka that can double as rocket fuel
Obtaining running water from a hose in the road across town
“Compote” which is like Kool-Aid but JACKED UP
Straight grease meals
Crappy houses. Literally made of mud and poop.

GLOW in Pictures

G.L.O.W. (Girls Leading Our World)

I had an amazing time at GLOW this year!

Camp GLOW is a weeklong leadership and skills-building program organized by Peace Corps Volunteers and our local Azerbaijani counterparts for young women entering the 9th and 10th grades from regions throughout Azerbaijan.
The purpose of this camp is to encourage young Azerbaijani women to become active citizens within their communities and the country at large. Camp GLOW also aims at demonstrating successful cooperation within members of the community by introducing camp participants to successful women in Azerbaijan, and some of the Peace Corps volunteer in the country.
During camp, the girls participated in a variety of lectures, discussions, and group project activities. This year we started our first day by defining leadership and community development; and build on this concept by talk about teamwork on day two where we played “Olympic Games” such as the trust fall, blindfolded walk, balloon toss, spider web, etc. On day three we discussed self-exploration and had an incredible talent show at the end of the day. The next day we discusses gender roles and overcoming obstacles, which was Lenkerans contribution to GLOW, and that night we had “GLOW Prom” which I was so jazzed about! Our last night we learned about project planning during the day; where we separated into region specific groups to plan potential community development projects and ended the night with a bonfire where we made smores (which tasted like America in my mouth) and sang campfire songs! All of the sessions were lead in Azeri, and our Azerbaijani counterparts facilitated most of them.
Upon completing this 6-day camp, participants are expected to initiate service projects promoting youth involvement, civic consciousness, and environmental awareness within their respected communities. I’m looking forward to working with the Lenkeran girls; we are planning on working with our local orphanage this summer!

***Not so Light n’ Fluffy***

I have put a considerable amount of thought into writing this post. Before I start I want to emphasis that these are my personal opinions from a somewhat narrow perspective. I fully understand that politics is complex and convoluted. My opinions are based on the 9 months I have spent in Azerbaijan, and the few books I’ve read about the history, economics, and politics to help me learn more about this country.

My initial intention for this blog was to post a few funny stories, and pictures to placate friends and family at home. In my experience most people at home lose interest soon after I’ve told a few quirky stories about cultural peculiarity from my travels. But it seems unfair to present only the humorous incidents and frustrating incidents that I try to turn into comical incidents, mostly for my own sanity.

A lot has happened in Azerbaijan over the last 9 months.

***A brief timeline***

October 2008 – Presidential Elections without any major political opponents.
January 2009 – Azerbaijan ban foreign radio (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/7805109.stm)
March 2009 – Constitutional Referendum, which removed the two-term limit on presidency of AZ.
June 2009 – Changing legislation on NGOs (read the article below).

Just a side note: since I’ve been here there have also been changes with the visa laws and procedures.

I would also like to mention something else that’s been on my mind recently. This hits home, because it is happening right here in Lenkeran. Parviz Azimov, a polite, well-mannered young man, who has always greeted me with a smile, was expelled from Lenkeran State University (LSU). A few months ago, he wrote an article in our local newspaper about corruption and bribery within LSU. The article “Qapalı Otaqlarda Açıq Bazar” translated “Open Bazaar in Closed Rooms"; I find the title of the article rather clever! Parviz was a fourth year, final semester student at LSU. He is currently going through a trial that may allow him to get reinstated. I wish him the best of luck!

Talk about self-sacrifice!

"If this law is passed, it will be the end of Azerbaijan[i] civil society"

AZERBAIJAN: NGO AMENDMENTS PUT CIVIL SOCIETY AT RISK - ACTIVISTS
Jessica Powley Hayden 6/17/09

Controversial amendments that would impose new restrictions on non-governmental organizations could force numerous local and international NGOs in Azerbaijan to cease operations. Some activists go so far as to say the amendments, if passed, would throttle civil society development in the country.

Azerbaijan’s parliament, the Milli Mejlis, is expected to consider the bill on June 19, just 10 days after the proposed amendments were announced. According to local NGO activists, President Ilham Aliyev’s office submitted the proposed amendments to parliament on June 8, and they received the speedy approval of the legislature’s Committee on Legal Policy the next day.

"It’s expected that the parliament, which is totally controlled by [the] executive power, will gladly accept the amendments, which are similar to those that passed in Belarus and Uzbekistan," according to an appeal circulated by NGO activists on June 16.

The proposed change that has garnered the most attention both in and outside of Azerbaijan is a requirement that non-governmental organizations (NGOs) limit their foreign funding to 50 percent. This would create overnight a situation in which almost every foreign-funded NGO would be in non-compliance with the law, experts say.

"This is an unusual situation because the law applies retroactively to NGOs that are already registered," said Hafiz Hasanov, head of the Legal and Development Union, a Baku-based NGO.

Other controversial measures include prohibiting foreigners from creating NGOs, imposing a five-year ban on NGO activity for those who violate the law, and restricting the geographic scope of where NGOs may operate. To be considered "nationwide," an NGO must have branch offices in at least one-third of Azerbaijan’s 69 administrative regions.

Experts fear that the "nationwide" definition will all but eliminate programs outside of the capital city. "We are not commercial entities and don’t have resources to open offices [outside of Baku]," Gubad Ibadoglu, chief of the Center of Economic Research, a Baku-based NGO, told a June 12 news conference. Ibadoglu and scores of other NGO activists have formed a coalition, the Committee to Protect Civil Society, to oppose the draft law.

The cumulative effect of the changes will allow Baku to keep close tabs on NGO activity. With little or no local philanthropy, NGOs could also be forced to look to the Azerbaijani government to fulfill the 50-percent-local-funding requirement. Dependence on the government would, of course, give officials leverage to influence NGO activity.

These provisions are "all aimed at punishing existing independent organizations. . . . Everything will be put under control," said Ilgar Mammedov, a member of the coalition and co-founder of the Republican Alternative Union, a group that promotes a republican form of government. [Editor’s note: Ilgar Mammedov sits on the board of the Open Society Institute-Assistance Foundation Azerbaijan. EurasiaNet operates under the auspices of the Open Society Institute in New York].

The government is dismissive of NGO activist criticism. "Frankly speaking, I cannot understand the concern of NGOs," Ali Hasanov, head of the presidential administration’s Policy Analysis and Information Department, told the APA news service. "[T]he amendments to the law will not create problems for existing NGOs. They have already been registered and continue their activity in line with the legislation."

"[This] is a blatant lie," charged Mammedov, who believes Hasanov is purposefully misleading the public. The government "feels confident that international community pressure won’t be sufficient" to disrupt its plans, he added.

The text of the legislation does contain an explicit retroactivity language. It also includes a vaguely worded provision that appears to provide a separate track for internationally registered NGOs. According to the draft law, foreign NGOs may operate in Azerbaijan under signed "relevant international agreement[s]."

Suggesting that bilateral agreements will supersede local law, Hasanov tried to reassure the international community. "Before foreign NGOs had operated in Azerbaijan as they liked. [F]rom now on, they will operate basing on the contract signed between the countries[.] [T]his is normal. The proposed amendments meet modern world standards," Hasanov told APA.

In a legal analysis of the draft law, the Washington, DC-based International Center for Not-for-Profit-Law noted that this "agreement provision" raises as many questions as it answers. The draft law fails to state "what kind of international agreement . . . must exist," the organization said.

It is also unclear how NGOs will meet "foreign" criteria. Many "local" NGOs receive the majority, if not all, of their funding from foreign donors. "There is no international practice of classifying NGOs as local and international. It is a shame the government is doing it here," commented the Legal and Development Union’s Hafiz Hasanov.

The US government is one of the largest international donors in Azerbaijan. Over $10 million of this year’s $25 million budget request for assistance to Azerbaijan was allocated to civil society programs, including rule-of-law initiatives and anti-corruption programs.

The 50-percent-local-funding requirement could be a serious setback for US-funded civil society programs. "We, of course, monitor the situation with interest as we believe that NGOs, particularly independent NGOs, are an integral and important part of a civil society," US embassy spokesperson Dmitri Tarakhovsky told EurasiaNet.

In a statement issued June 17, US Ambassador Anne Derse cautioned that the proposed legislation "would contravene international standards, result in further restrictions on freedom of speech and association, and put development of civil society in Azerbaijan at risk."

The Council of Europe has urged the Milli Mejlis, or parliament, to delay the vote. "[The amendments] may create serious obstacles for the freedom of expression and normal functioning of the civil society in Azerbaijan," the organization said in a June 16 statement.

In 2002, the parliament passed a bill that greatly expanded government oversight over NGOs. The legislation was widely criticized by local and international organizations and, ultimately, then-president Heidar Aliyev, Ilham’s father, did not sign the bill into law.

The Committee to Protect Civil Society is hoping similar pressure can frustrate the presidential administration’s plans this time too. Mammedov, however, is pessimistic. Unlike in 2002, today "we have a government with an authoritarian, dictatorial style, full of money and important in energy, gas and regional security," he said. The upshot is the government feels its energy wealth "will make it immune from international pressure."

Non-governmental organizations operating in Azerbaijan already face a myriad of opaque registration requirements. Delays in the registration process have resulted in several decisions against Azerbaijan in the European Court of Human Rights. To opponents, the June 19 vote on the NGO amendments appears the culmination of that process.

"If this law is passed, it will be the end of Azerbaijan[i] civil society," said the Legal and Development Union’s Hafiz Hasanov.

Editor's Note: Jessica Powley Hayden is a freelance reporter based in Baku.

Posted June 17, 2009 © Eurasianet
http://www.eurasianet.org

I love Lerik - where people live to be a 121 years old!